After Climbing in Hueco for a month with my friends and my fiancé Jessica D’Emilio, I wanted to give my fingers a break from hard
pulling and get on a rope for a bit. So, we packed up the brown stain (the famous Dory Camper from the 60s) and started making our way to Kentucky where the mullets are still goin’ strong, the bourbon freely flows, and the climbs are badass, ha. However, not before stopping and hanging out with our friends Jared and Ben owners of Motavation Volumes, (www.motavationvolumes.com) CHECK THEM OUT, sexiest volumes ever!!
So, the volume makin’ geniuses Jared & Ben have also been developing this new area 2 hours from Dallas (sorry to be vague BUT the location is a bit of a secret.) Well needless to say its a GOLDMIND- really an undeveloped HP40 with unbelievable fields of sandstone boulders. Candy land for climbers? HELLA YA! After only having two days to explore one of three areas I got a very small taste of what the future holds. Psyched to go back soon and develop more of this amazing sand stone, you could say the area needs some “love.”
After leaving TX Jes and I had about an EPIC 15-20 hour drive to THE RED RIVER GORGGEEEE. So, we’ve been psyched to be climbing in the Red taking massive whippers, loving the endurancy beautiful over hangs and feeling the RRG burn. It’s been a nice change having soft adrenaline rushing falls vs. hitting stacks of pads…
So far the trip has been great: onsiting some classics in the Madness and working up my endurance so I can stay on the wall and not have to “sprint” lol. Climbing in the Madness Cave has been a treat and pretty BBAAADDDAASSSS even if I feel my style involves: crash pads, chalk buckets and V-amazingness, it has been a nice change. Being on rope to me is a WHOLE OTHER ANIMAL. I am psyched on Lucifer and hoping I don’t pitch off the top of Omaha next try (hand-to-face).
So I got SPANKED at SCS Nationals (can’t win them all.) It just motivates me to work even harder.
What’s next you ask? Well, IFSC World Cups! The next few months I will be focusing on more scheduled training rather than just projecting. TRAIN!! TRAIN!! TRAIN!!… RAWR!
James Hickey is currently in Joes Valley and as much as I love sport Climbing I always love getting down with the pebble wrestling might head there in a few weeks… As for Jes she is getting down as well and brings an incredible vibe to the wall. She almost has completed every one of her projects at the RRG they are located in the Motherload & Long Wall section. She is psyched seeing her endurance start rising and changing up her beat from pulling hard on boulders to a meditative state of climbing long routes. Sometimes the boulders and routes she picks does make me nervous… she has a love for crimpy powerful slabs & 20+ feet highballs and looonnnggg crimpy, super techy, old school, RUN OUT (10+ feet) between bolts routes. But she works them for sure. Fear isn’t much of a factor to her (heart racing) but super proud to call her, and that Ecuadorian ass, my lady. Much much more to come!!!!!!