UGB Update

55moves then the crux dang!

CLIMBIN’ TRIPPIN’ DRIVIN’ DEVELOPIN’ (update.)

After Climbing in Hueco for a month with my friends and my fiancé Jessica D’Emilio, I wanted to give my fingers a break from hard

dont fall at the top

pulling and get on a rope for a bit. So, we packed up the brown stain (the famous Dory Camper from the 60s) and started making our way to Kentucky where the mullets are still goin’ strong, the bourbon freely flows, and the climbs are badass, ha.  However, not before stopping and hanging out with our friends Jared and Ben owners of Motavation Volumes, (www.motavationvolumes.com) CHECK THEM OUT, sexiest volumes ever!!

So, the volume makin’ geniuses Jared & Ben have also been developing this new area 2 hours from Dallas (sorry to be vague BUT the location is a bit of a secret.) Well needless to say its a GOLDMIND- really an undeveloped HP40 with unbelievable fields of sandstone boulders. Candy land for climbers? HELLA YA! After only having two days to explore one of three areas I got a very small taste of what the future holds. Psyched to go back soon and develop more of this amazing sand stone, you could say the area needs some “love.”

After leaving TX Jes and I had about an EPIC 15-20 hour drive to THE RED RIVER GORGGEEEE.  So, we’ve been psyched to be climbing in the Red taking massive whippers, loving the endurancy beautiful over hangs and feeling the RRG burn.  It’s been a nice change having soft adrenaline rushing falls vs. hitting stacks of pads…

So far the trip has been great: onsiting some classics in the Madness and working up my endurance so I can stay on the wall and not have to “sprint” lol. Climbing in the Madness Cave has been a treat and pretty BBAAADDDAASSSS even if I feel my style involves: crash pads, chalk buckets and V-amazingness, it has been a nice change. Being on rope to me is a WHOLE OTHER ANIMAL.  I am psyched on Lucifer and hoping I don’t pitch off the top of Omaha next try (hand-to-face).

So I got SPANKED at SCS Nationals (can’t win them all.) It just motivates me to work even harder.

What’s next you ask? Well, IFSC World Cups! The next few months I will be focusing on more scheduled training rather than just projecting. TRAIN!! TRAIN!! TRAIN!!… RAWR!

James Hickey is currently in Joes Valley and as much as I love sport Climbing I always love getting down with the pebble wrestling might head there in a few weeks…  As for Jes she is getting down as well and brings an incredible vibe to the wall. She almost has completed every one of her projects at the RRG they are located in the Motherload & Long Wall section.  She is psyched seeing her endurance start rising and changing up her beat from pulling hard on boulders to a meditative state of climbing long routes. Sometimes the boulders and routes she picks does make me nervous… she has a love for crimpy powerful slabs & 20+ feet highballs and looonnnggg crimpy, super techy, old school, RUN OUT (10+ feet) between bolts routes. But she works them for sure. Fear isn’t much of a factor to her (heart racing) but super proud to call her, and that Ecuadorian ass, my lady.  Much much more to come!!!!!!

Ian Dory

Quote :“No Fear Just Climbing” Trainer J. Wildmen

About me
I have been climbing most of my life from the day I was born I have been traversing out of my crib to climbing the up the chimney of our home. So, climbing to me, has always just defined me. I have to thank and give credit to my dad for introducing and teaching me about this sport and taking me to the local gym in Fort Collins, Inner strength Rock Gym. Because of him I was able to pursue my passion and when my brother got his driver licenses he started taking me to Rifle, the Poudre Canyon and places in Utah.
I have spent a lot of time the last few years climbing with my brother, James Hickey, Josh Mitchell, Matty Hong and more recently Dave Graham, Jon Cardwell, Andre Di Felice and more amazing climbers whom all are great people that bring lots of psyched energy for the sport. Motivation is what drives me, passion is what makes me and sending is what I live for!

Goals
I have been pushing myself hard to continue bouldering v14 and will continue to pull for the most beautiful climbs I can find as well as cleaning and developing amazing lines. I also want to one day stick my first v15… someday soon.
Personal projects I have include this amazing roof called Flux for Life at Endo Valley along with many other boulder problems located there.
On a rope my goals consist of climbs at Rifle such as Lung fisher, Plant X, and Living in Fear. I also have a few projects at the Poudre including what my dad calls “The Ian Dory Project”…
I am also looking to bolt my very own sport line in Australia with Dave.
One of my biggest goals in the upcoming years as a climber is to win a World Cup, and continue making the US Bouldering Team.
Nutrition focus and training at Summit Strength with my trainer Brad Jackson to become the best climber I can be from the rock to the competitions has been a vital key lately. I want to become the best that I know I can be as an athlete.

Interests
Besides climbing & training I work for my dad on the farm, something I have grown to very much enjoy. I also enjoy music; I play the drums and piano when I have free time. But all in all, my interests involve the outdoors, rocks, developing, and as you know… climbing.

Sponsors
Something From the Farm, Five Ten, Verve, Flashed, Petzl, & Deuter

Favorite Climbing Area:
Joes Valley in UT, a place where matter what happens its’ always a good time! The rock is some of the most beautiful I have seen in the states plus, there aren’t many restrictions, you can shoot guns if you want, and there is still so much developing potential, it just needs a little vision…

Favorite Climbs:
Fed in the A (5.14b) Ten Sleep, WY
Red Tag (V10) Hueco, Texas
Mask of God (V13) Joes Valley, UT
Omaha Beach (5.14a) Red River Gorge, Kentucky

Favorite Movie
Despicable Me
Core
Shooter

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