Most Recent

  • Why You Should Have a Pair of Tenayas in Your Climbing Shoe Quiver…

    When I found out a few months ago that Tenaya would be joining Trango under the Great Trango Holdings, Inc umbrella, my first thought was, “YES!!!  Free shoes!”  But then my second thought was, “Geez, what if I don’t like them?!?”  I mean let’s be honest here.  Though at first glance many climbers may seem like easy gear junkies who will try anything and everything if its free, the majority of our flirtations with gimmicky swag is just temporary before we toss it aside in favor of our old stand-by gear.  And there’s probably no piece of climbing gear that is more personalized to a climber than their shoes.  They have to fit perfect.  They have to perform perfect.  Well, Read More

  • Mammoth Area Bouldering

      Check out the brand new Mammoth Bouldering Guidebook, the other bouldering guide to the eastern Sierra. Including over 1000 problems at 16 different areas. Check out the amazing and previously undocumented areas Way Lake and Hartley Springs. Due out at the end of September 2012, place pre-orders now at mammothboulderingguidebook.com. Read More

  • Squamish BC

    I took a trip to Squamish, BC at the beginning of August.  It was short but I can already tell you I will be coming back to this place every summer for years to come.  It was completely awesome in every way.  Squamish has every kind of climbing and it is all good.  I had the most fun trad climbing but there is something for everyone and it is all in a beautiful setting with friendly Canadians all around. The Chief.  1000′+ roadside crag. Dylan on top of the Apron.  We climbed a 5 pitch route there called “The Snake.” We went bouldering a little bit too.  Here is Dylan on the classic problem “Viper” One day we went to Read More

  • Gear Review – Edelrid Crux Crashpad

    This crashpad gives a whole new meaning to the saying “Go big or go home.”  The Edelrid Crux crashpad is one of the largest crashpads on the market, there is no excuse with this pad underneath you.  I think it might actually be the largest.  Bigger than the Metolius Magnum, the Black Diamond Mondo, the Revolution 12-G…the list goes on and on.  It is only 4 inches thick, but at 85 inches in length and 47 inches in width this pad will cover any boulder problem by itself!  I took it up to Mount Evans Area A with my buddy Mike and we climbed a bunch of boulder problems from traverses to highballs.  This is the only pad I have ever used Read More

  • Rocktown Bouldering Guidebook: A Review

      WOW!!! That’s was my first impression of the new Rocktown Bouldering Guidebook as soon as I pulled the book out of the shipping envelope…and the WOW factor didn’t stop as I read through the book for this review! With eye popping, brilliantly colored, high resolution action photos jumping off of nearly every page, this guide doesn’t disappoint those that love some good eye candy! Atop Lookout Mountain in Northeast Georgia exists a labyrinth of sandstone boulders with practically every shape, size and variety of hold and route possible…Rocktown!  Rocktown is one of the Big 3 boulderfields in the Southeast, Little Rock City (or Stone Fort to those that haven’t been bouldering for a while) and Horse Pens 40 being Read More

  • Making Carabiners and Climbing Routes…in Utah

    So while I was at Outdoor Retailer in Salt lake City earlier this month I stayed a couple extra days after the show.  I got a tour of Black Diamond and climbed in Maple Canyon.  I got to see Black Diamond gear being made like carabiners and crampons and I got to see them testing everything from ski boots to their new Magnetron locking carabiners.  Maple Canyon was great as well and a completely different type of climbing than anything I am used to on the Frontrange of Colorado.  More on that later. Below you can see a few different photos from BD.  The entire facility was pretty cool.  They have their hot and cold forge processes downstairs in their factory Read More

  • Down in the murky black

    I’d never been to the Black Canyon, but I’d certainly read a lot about it. Bold climbs, ballsy climbers, poison ivy, and dubious rock quality about sums up the literature on it. I was asked/encouraged to go, and looked forward to seeing what would happen. Heading to the Black seems like the opposite, say, of heading to the Tetons or Castle Valley where your destination jumps up off the plain in front of you. There was one set of mountains, but we went right on through them, down the other side, and off across some scrubby flats through ranches and tiny towns. We were headed to a big climbing area, but it just didn’t feel like it. Like going climbing Read More

  • Sometimes Climbers Aren’t Cool

    I often wear cargo shorts (or cargo pants when it’s cold) to go climbing. This is fairly new for me. Besides the usefulness of always having chapstick at my fingertips, I find that wearing cargo pants makes me a better steward of the environment. Allow me to explain… Bouldering in Rocky Mountain National Park is, as I’ve mentioned before, beautiful and relatively remote. I still remember when the Druids in Bishop were too damn far away to bother with. Now, that 45-minute hike at 6,000 feet sounds like a rest day. Upper Chaos involves about 60 minutes of hiking (after 90 minutes of driving, if you live in the Front Range), with an elevation gain of about 800 feet, just Read More

  • Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2012 Trip Report

    The show has come and gone and since I have a day job I am just now getting to post about my time in Salt Lake City attending Summer OR.  I really need to get to these earlier as everyone else already has their posts up about the show.  The only difference here is that I will have a post up shortly after this about my time after the show in Salt Lake City hanging out with Black Diamond.  I got a tour of their facilities and then climbed in Maple Canyon.  Check back soon to see the report about that. As you can see, from my schedule above, I am incredibly busy at Summer OR.  I have to meet Read More