Most Recent

  • Make Comment to NPS on wilderness area climbing

    The National Park Service has released a draft wilderness management policy, part of which includes climbing management planning and fixed anchor policy in their wilderness areas. The plan will be directly consequential to climbing management on NPS lands. For non-NPS wilderness lands and climbing areas, the plan could be equally as consequential, serving as a model for these other agencies to follow. For example, the Department of Agriculture’s Forest Service could use the NPS plan as a model to manage climbing and set bolting policies in areas like the Linville Gorge, Looking Glass and Whitesides. The Access Fund and American Alpine Club report positively that the draft plan is pretty much consistent with the conversation they’ve had with NPS for Read More

  • Roof of Death

    What is the best boulder problem in Boone?  That is a highly subjective question.  “M1″?  “Mighty Mouse”?  “Matt’s Prow”?  There are so many good ones to choose from.  In my opinion I would have to say “Roof of Death” at Blowing Rock.  The problem is awesome in every way.  It is tall, splitter, good moves, a little heady and historic.  John Sherman called it “Boone’s Mega Classic” in his 1994 book Stone Crusade.  It has a lot of sentimental value to me.  I learned to climb at Blowing Rock and this was one of those problems I looked at and thought “I will never do that”.  One day in 2009 I decided I would.  Everyone approached the problem with trepidation Read More

  • Get ‘yer lingo right

    A couple of friends and I have spent trips to the crags bemoaning the current state of route terminology in climbing. In particular, people who claim to have “done that route, but I had to rest”. It’s not a rest, you hung on the gear. If you weight the rope it doesn’t count as a rest. This all started for me a couple of season ago at the New River Gorge. We were finishing up Voyeur Variation (classic route and one of my favorites, the upper dihedral is just plain fun) and there were some guys on Leave it to Jesus across the way. The guy following it fell and then said “ah, I should have flashed that on toprope”. Read More

  • New Upstate SC Bouldering Spot: Beasley Gap

    My apologies for not getting the Beasley Gap Bouldering Guide up yet, it has continued to evolve over the last couple of weeks with new FA’s and variations of existing problems. The guide will have around 60 or so problems from Vb-V5 and will sport color photo topo’s of each the 11 boulders/boulder sets that have been climbed so far. I should have it completed and published early next week for everyone to enjoy! Until then, here is a little teaser of what you’ll see as well as, enough beta to get you to the boulders and on a few of the better routes in the area. Here is the overall map of the area… Here is an example of Read More

  • Half Dome: Ten Years Later

    It’s hard to believe that it was 10 years ago this year that I climbed the Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome in Yosemite. I was 21 and was wrapping up my 3rd summer in the Valley. Half Dome had always been a goal for me, even more appealing than the longer routes on El Cap. They just don’t have the amazing position overlooking all of Yosemite the way that Half Dome does. To me, Half Dome is the symbol of Yosemite. When I first went to Valley, I didn’t even know how to crack climb. I got off the Greyhound with a rack of sport draws and an Arc’tyrx sport harness. I got schooled my fist summer. It took Read More

  • Shortoff

    We had a fantastic day at Shortoff, on two top-notch routes. The weather was bright and gusty, and very cool in the shade. I redeemed myself on one older route, finishing something I had merely assisted before I knew sticky rubber from tooth paste. Then I was kindly shown the way on what’s surely one of the most worthwhile face routes around. My toes were screaming from all the thin face. What a pleasure. Burnt to a crisp, the ridges leading up to Shortoff look almost meadowed, with some sort of tall yellow grass. It’s kind of a curious sight. Read More

  • New Climbing Term: The Flashback

    When I was at the Lost Cove boulders near Boone this Saturday, I had a great time climbing a ton of problems I haven’t done in years. It had been so long since I last climbed there that I forgot all the beta for most of the problems. And since I’ve been slowly getting stronger after a prolonged injury, I am just now able to climb routes in the V4 range for the first time in over a year and a half. It was pretty exciting stuff (seeing as how I was climbing V1s all summer). I even sent a couple of the V4s first go. Sending the V4s first try felt like a major accomplishment. But what could I Read More

  • The Dirty

    I have taken the liberty of “borrowing” a few pictures from Brian Clevenger to share with all of you.  I hope he doesn’t mind too much.  I hope you enjoy Brian’s photos.  For more check out www.bclevs.blogspot.com Brian on “Lord of the Dance” at Dayton Pocket.  Hard roof climbing. Me on a beautiful arete at Zahnd called “Cheesecake”.  It is quite the unique feature. Emily climbing at Little Rock City.  The problem shown is “Super Mario Brothers”. Me on Salo’s Roof.  Cumberland.   Ben Newton at Rocktown on a wet day.  We made the best of it though. Read More

  • Boone, NC – Local History: The Dump

    After spending the day with the coolest guy in the world, Mike Grimm, I got the run down on some climbing history at our local sport crag, The Dump. Call me a nerd but I really enjoy hearing Boone climbing history. I can’t get enough of it! Here is some route-by-route info. Forgive me if any of this is not correct. Pigs in Zen (aka Porter’s 13)- FA Porter Jarrard. The original route up the steep wall, this was done years before many of the other easy routes in the area were climbed. Originally, the route sported some of the infamous “porter hangers”. Basically just angle iron bolted to the wall. Josh on the crux moves. Photo Matt De Camara Read More