Most Recent

  • Plastic Pleasures

    Never would I have thought that I’d get so much pleasure out of climbing on plastic, but lately I’ve managed to get about one day in a week on friend’s home walls. Thanks to their generosity and elbow grease, languish and rot doesn’t set in when the weather outside is frightful, and work has me clamped like a prisoner to a chair. This past weekend dumped inches of rain and while the creeks got swolt and brown with overflow we retreated to the outbuildings that house our little Laboratories of Crank.  It was a new threshold for me, as I got in not one, but two full days on plastic. Yikes! For someone who perhaps naively–in the face of our Read More

  • I’m going Bald!

    The first question which you will ask and which I must try to answer is this, “What is the use of climbing Mount Everest?” and my answer must at once be, “It is no use.” There is not the slightest prospect of any gain whatsoever. Oh, we may learn a little about the behavior of the human body at high altitudes, and possibly medical men may turn our observation to some account for the purposes of aviation. But otherwise nothing will come of it. We shall not bring back a single bit of gold or silver, not a gem, nor any coal or iron. We shall not find a single foot of earth that can be planted with crops to Read More

  • Purgatory

    Dave Sharratt’s post about Ghost Town and The Ugly project got me thinking about my own project that I had at this short-lived but awesome crag in Hickory Nut Gorge, near Asheville. I probably worked on Purgatory (5.13a) for about 4 days over various weekends and was getting to the point where I could one-hang it before I broke off a key crimp at the crux. There are 2 ways to do the crux, with left and right variations, and almost everyone I was climbing with, myself included, was trying the right variation. I saw my pals Howie and Robert send the route while me and Heath were still working on it. It was already getting to be warm at Read More

  • Chatty

    My time in Chattanooga is drawing to a close.  I have less than a month.  I’ve spent the winter here bouldering the whole time.  A lesser form of climbing?  Perhaps.  All I can say is I have been on a rope only one time since I moved here in December and I dont regret it.  However, I am looking forward to stepping up my route game this summer in Boone!  I stole some pics from my roomate Brian Clevenger for your viewing pleasure.  Visit www.bclevs.blogspot.com for more from him. Ben Newton came to visit Brian and I.  Ben always brings the good weather so I hope to see more of him soon.  Here he is on a nice slab problem Read More

  • GHSP; That new place you’ve heard of

    In case you’ve been a social recluse and bouldering by yourself over the past year or two, or, if you’ve been too busy tugging on plastic with your dudebros and chickas at the gym and havent heard about whats going on at the real rocks, I’m gonna do you a solid and let you in on everything that has been going down at the best new summer bouldering area in the southeast… Grayson Highlands State Park (GHSP). Grayson Highlands has it all and more for warm weather bouldering. The climate in the highlands of Virginia is constantly cooler than anywhere else in the southeast, allowing you to keep those nasty sweaty fangers on some cool mountain stone. Also, the most common feature in GHSP is the sharp crimp under an Read More

  • Memorial To The Ugly

    For our tribe of avid (obsessed) climbers, climbing helps to keep us healthy, makes us happy (and frustrated, but at least you know you’re alive when you split a tip or scream in anguish as you fail), gets us outdoors, and gives us something to focus on.  It is a wonderfully enriching and extravagantly self-indulgent pursuit. We also like to share our experiences, for often they are the times when we’ve felt most alive.  The journey, the pain, the joy, and the inspiration all come together to make wonderful tales.  By sharing our unique visions and perspectives, climbing becomes slightly less selfish. So cheers to cruxn, a new grassroots platform for climbers to tell their stories.  Hopefully you will find Read More

  • Stone Mountain Bouldering

    To accompany this little write-up on bouldering at Stone Mountain, here’s a link to an old Boulderdash article on the finer problems Stone has to offer, written by local and Triple Crown Bouldering Series originator, Jim Horton. For those of you who don’t know Boulderdash, it was a Carolina-based, by-the-seat-of-its-pants rag that ran from the 1990s until 2001. Begun by Mark Bishop, from the late 90s to early 2000s it was revamped by Carl Stearns and Lynn Willis as a full-color East Coast mag. I think it was loved and enjoyed by all while it lasted! Anyway, enough nostalgia: Horton’s article is an entertaining written and photographic guide to some of the best boulder problems of Stone Mountain. Enjoy. Stone Read More

  • Thank you for being a friend

    It’s true, we took the plunge and made a Facebook page for Cruxn.com. And we’d like you to join us! We promise not to spam the living bejezus out of you…we’ll just update you occasionally on interesting posts or other cool or crazy stuff happening in the world of climbing. Also, in the next few weeks we’ll be running an official launch promotion for the site, using Facebook as one of the tools to get the word out about Cruxn. Right now, we need at least 25 people to “Like” us to get the FB page up and running. We’ve got 11 nice folks at the moment, so we just need a few more to make us FB legit. So Read More

  • Stone(d)

    The other night when I arrived at the gym for my weekly chalk-dust-inhalation therapy session a friend called me over and said “ask Brian about the bolts at Stone”. What followed was a conversation about why the bolts at Stone are so far apart. It’s a classic NC argument. For those who haven’t climbed there, Stone is a friction climbing mecca and the bolts on most routes are 20-30 feet apart, sometimes longer. Given the relatively low angle and the moderate nature of a lot of the climbing, combined with the less dangerous nature of falls on friction it makes sense. If the place were grid bolted it just wouldn’t be Stone. Throw into the mix the fact that those Read More