Most Recent

  • To Grandmother’s Boulders We Go…

    Slowly but surely I’ve been whittling away at my 2011 Hit List, and finally dragging my crash pad up to the Grandmother Boulders in Boone brings me one step closer to crossing off #7 from my list, which was about exploring new climbing areas. These quality boulders are sitting around 5000 feet or so, making for a welcome summer respite for NC climbers drowning in humidity at lower elevations across the state. There’s not guidebook of course, because thats the way NC bouldering rolls, so we were delighted that our friend Matt was up for showing us around. The temps were in the 70′s, and it hadn’t rained in almost a week, making for refreshingly crisp conditions in the NC Read More

  • Coopers Rock WV Images

    Coopers Rock…though admittedly is not a “destination” bouldering destination, the place is pretty rad for what it is:  A collection of about ?500 gritstone problems all clustered into 3 major areas.  Though the most prevalent grade is V3, there are classics at every grade up through V6 including a plethora of good V0 and V1 problems.  I went to college at WVU for 6 years and while there, was hated on pretty hard for publishing information about Coopers Rock.  I specifically remember one guy who threatened to kick my ass at the crag because I had posted some problem information on my “geocities” webpage.  I was <—> this close to dedicating the book to the dude. Read More

  • Summertime

    Here’s a quick vid from this weekend’s trip to HP40. 97 degree temps are super-conducive to hard sending in the slopey deep south. If you’re not into watching vids of shirtless bros climbing V1 I would avoid the play button. If you’re looking for a better way to kill 4 mins than this fantastic interview: then I think I’ve got you covered. Happy trails. Read More

  • Shortoff, NC

    Last week Leif, Dalen and I made a trip to Shortoff Mountain in the Linville Gorge. North Carolina can get hot in the summer. Shortoff is the southern most crag in the Linville Gorge and is also the lowest in elevation. The forecast for Morganton this day was a high of 92 and sunny. Leif being the most motivated of us 3 led us to the crag with the idea of climbing in the Tilted World. Shortoff is a real deal wall. With a long approach, a steep gulley to descend, and long and steep routes in a wilderness setting Shortoff is one of the most “real” places I have climbed.  The walls generally faces south/southwest the routes get a lot of Read More

  • 5,000 Miles – Part 1: Leavenworth

    Happy Fourth of July! We’ve been on the road for just over a month now, climbing primarily in Leavenworth, WA. Today we’re in Seattle visiting some friends before saying goodbye to the Northwest. Here is the first installment of our video project for the trip. Stay tuned for the Northern California segment later this summer! Read More

  • World Cup Update

    Every climb in every Cup from Canada to Sheffield has taught me something about how to and what to do in Cup situation from the warm up to the five second count down before go time each Cup has been a learning experience. All this experience has brought me closer and closer to one day standing with the best of the best. With only one comp left for me in the tour I am getting psyched to preform at the best of my ability in the Arco World Championships. I need to give a big big thanks to Jes/love of my life for helping me every step of the way making sure I have the logistics all worked out, and Read More

  • Poll (Updated): What are the best small camming devices?

      If you are the type to watch reruns of Friends (and I’d never say that you were, or that I am for that matter; this is purely hypothetical), you might find yourself thinking, “Damn, this show looks dated already.”  Well, like the show Friends the bulk of my friends date back to the late 90s, and I can tell you they are looking rough and a bit dated, like they just stumbled in after an all nighter following a Pearl Jam concert. Not only are the cams all old models by now, most of the wires are all jacked so the cam heads are askew, and I’ve got a few that pump me out just trying to pull the Read More

  • My Day in the Life of a Woman Climber

    As a member of the male species, I’ve always wondered what really goes on in the world of women, especially at the cliff. How do they approach hard climbs? What do they talk about? And what happens at the end of the day after the climbing is done? I decided to take my investigative skills and find out. My wife and eight of her friends had plans to go out climbing, so I figured this was the perfect opportunity. I donned a wig and introduced myself as Billy Jean, and my cover must have been better than it looked in the mirror, because they encouragingly welcomed me to join them for the day. Even the two dogs with us were Read More