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  • Snow. And lots of it.

    Third forced rest day. We WOULD return to Bishop just as the weather is beginning to turn! It poured… and poured… and poured some more on Friday night. Saturday was spent inside, out of the cold and the wind. We were expecting to be able to climb Sunday, but awoke to temps in the low 20′s and a heavily clouded sky. No sun to be had. A Brit approached us as we were making coffee and said, “Good morning. I was hoping you’d be able to reassure me about the weather.” Chris chuckled and retorted, “We were hoping YOU would!” The guy had apparently just arrived in the US the previous day. He was parked in a nearby campsite with Read More

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    Ohhh, Bishop! We’re baaack!

    Needless to say (if anyone read our Moe’s Valley Overview), Moe’s was a flop. By the end of two weeks, we found ourselves languidly approaching the boulder field with dismal attitudes. It was time to cut our losses and move on. We gave Moe’s our best effort, and it did indeed teach us a thing or two. Where to go? We started off by performing in depth research (aka inefficiently scouring the web for beta) to make an educated decision. HA. HA. We thought about Vegas – too expensive. We considered Arkansas – other than Horseshoe Canyon Ranch, which is far too pricey for us, there is a dearth of info on surrounding bouldering options. Hmmm, what about AZ? Should Read More

  • Windy days and cold nights

    The first part of this week was spent running away from the wind. We were hit especially hard on Sunday. The morning was brisk, but as the sun peeked out from behind the hills the temps slowly rose. I was chased by an angry, growling dog as soon as I got out of the tent at 7AM. This isn’t the first time this has happened, either. The dog continued to rush over toward me barking. The owner would call it back and tell me how ‘friendly’ the dog was. This must have occurred a half dozen times before we left the parking lot and got on with our day. We warmed up over on the Woozle boulder. The highlight problem Read More

  • Hit List for 2012

    Although a large part of what makes crag days special involves the amazing people I’m with and the spectacular setting we’re in, another big part of it for me is the personal satisfaction that comes from working towards and achieving goals that I’ve set for myself.  Sometimes those goals revolve around specific routes, grades, and/or areas, and other times they are more vague (ie, getting better at _______ technique).  Other times they are things that are personally applicable to me in my current life phase.  For example, during my pregnancy I challenged myself to see how many weeks into my pregnancy I could still “toprope send” 5.11, but during the first few months of Cragbaby’s life, my goal was simply Read More

  • Arkansas

    Arkansas Ever since I watched videos of Dave, Jon and other friends climbing in Arkansas making a trip down to check out the amazing sandstone was on the list. Nalle and I were both engaged and psyched with the idea of climbing, developing and getting to know the southeast. After a brief stop in Hueco Tanks, TX we were all motivated to climb on the friendly sandstone of Arkansas. After speaking with our contact Cole Fennel about some of the new bouldering areas that needed development, we knew that Arkansas was going to be A-MAZING. We arrived at the Horseshoe Canyon Ranch pretty late because pulling a camper can take time plus some. The camp grounds at night were pretty Read More

  • Setbacks

    I haven’t felt much like blogging since we arrived in Moe’s. Unfortunately, I sustained a finger injury the fourth day we were here and have subsequently been forced to take it easy. I’m not one for blogging when energy and enthusiasm are low. I’ll start form the beginning. Oh yeah, we’re in Moe’s. We flew in to Vegas and decided camping was either going to be too much of a hassle (if we camped for free 30miles away from Red Rocks) or too expensive (if we camped for $15/night just across from Red Rocks). We chose a more convenient location, Moe’s Valley in St. George, UT. It’s really a pretty place with fantastic amenities (uhhh, free showers???). We camp for Read More

  • Gumbies on Parade

    Here is a late Christmas gift to all of you. Happy 2012! Ironic since I haven’t climbed on a rope since Labor Day. Josh crimping face on Porter’s Route at the Dump Zach Hypes at Flat Rock Matt D on The Riddler at a crag near Boone, NC. This route’s name clues you in to how this one might climb. Daniel Kadwell sticks the jug on “Unwritten Law” Cruxn my face off at the Sunken Treasure crag. Lana and I getting ready for “No Free Lunch”. We did it in 2 pitches for the novelty and because we didn’t have enough slings to link up the pitches. Amarillo Sunset at the Red. Classic! Ben Fierman gets it back at the Read More

  • Projects 2011: Did You Send?

    2011 has been a mixed bag. I started the year injured (left shoulder)  and I’m ending it injured again (lower back). Also, there was a little thing called graduate school thrown into the mix that narrowed my life down to all school and maybe one day of climbing a week. Still, I managed to tick a bunch of my fall projects here in Boone, including Unwritten Law (12b/c) and No Free Lunch at Hawksbill, which is one of the most exposed, amazing pitches of 5.10+ trad climbing I’ve ever had the joy to climb. To the left is a picture of me getting shut down at the crux of Shredded Wheat, a 5.11a classic finger crack at Rumbling Bald. It’s Read More

  • A hueco visit and the meaning of el paso

    Eric Perlman’s Masters of Stone III movie gave me my first impression of Hueco. Perlman’s movies were VHS precursors to the glut of web-based climbing movies we watch now. His Masters of Stone I, II and III offered frenetic sport-clipping, drop-knee tours through French limestone country, along with healthy servings of Sierras granite, and mullet-powered sport climbing radness from other parts of the American West. The series’ third offered a tour of Hueco, starting with a dusty, disappointing El Paso scene. The late Todd Skinner provides an entertaining intro: “It’s called El Paso, ’cause if you’re not a climber, you just pass on through.” Sure, it doesn’t make literal sense but that line still cracks me up. Eye-popping footage follows of Read More