The Mangrove Tree

A while back, likely last March based on the date stamp, I read a blog post from Sean McColl about a French Training Camp he participated in. Right away I was intrigued by one of the activities he described as “Mangrove Power” or as my poor French translating from the diagram to the right, “The Mangrove Tree”. At the time I was guest routesetting at a local Lifetime Fitness climbing wall. This wall is actually pretty decent compared to other fitness center walls I’ve seen. They had 9 top-rope set-ups and some pretty good variety of angles. I thought of using this Mangrove Tree concept at that wall for 2 reasons.

First, to increase the volume and variety of routes in at least a 2-rope section of the wall. I wanted to have each of the branches/roots to have a theme based on movement type or hold type. In this section of wall, instead of 2-3 routes that were standard, there would be 16 combinations and in my plans 18. (Direct Routes on the outsides)

And second, I saw it as a way to train stamina. One key benefit of this location was the 2 hours of childcare provided. I was excited to develop my recovery abilities, both mid-route as well as in between attempts. I wanted to see if I could do all 18 variations in 2 hours.

Regretfully, I did not get the opportunity to give this a try before we moved and my membership dissipated. But the idea didn’t leave my head. Enter homewall v.3.0 and my modified Mangrove Tree. Modified based on the limited height and boulder focused rather than route focused. It’s still a work in progress as I only have 2 lower branches and 2 upper branches set so far. But here’s what I came up with.

Boulder Tree

How it works: Every boulder is a combination of a # route (1-4) and a letter route (A-D). The # routes are the bottom half of the problem. The RED hold at the top center is the equivalent of the center point in the French Mangrove Tree. Because these are much shorter and more bouldery, it is not really a very good rest hold, but is matchable and (*key*) identical to the RED hold in the bottom center. As well as the spacing and size of the white foot jibs. Once the # route is climbed to the top center, the climber drops and IMMEDIATELY begins a lettered route.

Like I said, its a work in progress, but at my disposal I will have 16 problems with 12-13 hand moves each. I plan on working some serious stamina, climbing all 16 combinations in a set workout time. I can tick them off systematically or by random drawing.

I’ll let you know how it turns out and, with any technological luck, possibly upload a video or two.

Thoughts? Experiences? Please feel free to share your insight. Or ask questions… chances are I may need to provide additional clarification.

~ Climb 4 Real ~

I was in The Needles of Sylvan Lake (in South Dakota), and the climbing was the scary old-school type of climbing that I love. Manky pitons, scant pro, and the only use for my #5 Camalot was as a counterweight to keep the sling I’d draped over a knob from blowing away in the wind. In the campground there I met someone a guy named Cheyenne and eventually we got to the natural question for such a heady place: “what’s the most effed up thing you’ve ever seen while climbing?”

I’ve got some pretty good stories, but his took the cake!

Pile Ze Bags:

Some russian free-soloist and his crew had bowled into town and made some waves by running around and (obviously) soloing anything he felt sassy enough to sack up for. One particular climb followed a 100′ crack up a 110′ pillar that started as a 10b offwidth and slowly narrowed until it no longer existed, just 10′ from the top. Grunt, grovel, scrape, through the offwidth as flawlessly as one could hope, then BAM! BAM! BAM! straight up the fists, through the hands, down to fingers, and now he’s out…

The crack ends, he’s got good finger-locks with good feet on the typical Needles knobs, but he’s stumped. For those of you keeping track at home, getting stumped 100′ off the deck while soloing is typically not reccommended. Left hand up… doesn’t like it. back into the crack. Right hand up… still doesn’t like it! chalk… chalk… think, head scratch.. AHA! SHIFT THE FEET! right foot, left foot… okay, again with the hands. Right hand up… still garbage. Left hand up, not promising. If only he could reach that knob that is just slightly.. well… unfortunately out of reach!

He sits and thinks a moment more before looking over his shoulder and shouting at his friends “PILE ZE BAGS!!!!”

INSTANTLY, they start throwing all their bags at the base of the crack. As soon as the operation has finished, he nods contently… and dynos up for the knob, sticks it, and nonchalantly continues his day as though nothing out of the ordinary had happened.

Why this is effed up (for those of you keeping track at home):

1) it’s not like he would have actually hit the bags if he fell

2) seriously, you’re counting on those bags to save you from 100′ !?!

3) preposterous on the face of it

4) everybody reacted INSTANTLY, as if this was a routine maneuver

Fast forward through some years from that trip, and observe my own soloing escapades. I’ve now told this story to everyone who climbs with me long enough to be considered fun to keep around, and I’m at a crag 800 miles from home with one of my climbing partners that i’ve met locally, looking for the rest of our group who weredriving up to meet us. After a brief session of yelling names I finally grow impatient holler “PILE ZE BAGS!!!!!” as loud as possible.

After responding to a resounding return call of “PILE ZE BAGS!!!!” from somewhere forward and overhead, I turn the corner to spy a confused belayer who simply points up and says “he’s up there.” Much to my surprise, the climber isn’t even in our group, but is someone else entirely whom I’d met in Atlanta.

My first lead of the day was a sport route I’d been dying to send since entering the market, and my second lead was a wonderful old-school masterpiece with slung knobs where I hung my #4 as a counterweight (the trusty #5 was, sadly, still on the ground). Some new-school kids come around the corner talking loudly about this “sketchy” sport route on the anchors just left of mine… I don’t say anything, but everybody in my group has a grin on their face because they know: Sometimes, you just have to PILE ZE BAGS!!!!

There’s nothing quite like a good story to bring people together! Thanks again to everyone for the great trip to Sandrock this past weekend!

The weekend started with me making plans to climb with Charlotte, NC local Joe Disciullo. Joe is a very experienced traditional climber with many years under his belt. We have been friends for a few years but have not really got out and climbed much together. I was very excited to hang out with Joe for 3 days, climb, eat, drink, and tell stories. I informed Joe that we would be meeting up with Chattanooga’s Rob Robinson writer of The Tennessee Wall guide book, first ascent connoisseur, and veteran climber. Joe was just as excited as I was and despite the half ass forecast we piled into his custom Honda Element with built in apartment and left for Chattanooga at 7 P.M. Thursday night. We stopped along the way in Asheville, NC for dinner and a beer. We ate at my favorite seafood spot in the city ” The Lobster Trap “, however the grilled fish and greens I chased with a local India Pale Ale left something to be desired. The French Broad Chocolate Lounge was just the ticket! Joe had never been and the line was short so it was a must do to cure my lustful sweet tooth. We were inside for only a few moments when Joe decided to go for a walk to scope out all the goodies. He leaves my side for 60 seconds, that’s it 60 seconds before I look over and see some girl feeding him chocolate cake and smiling…

I immediately question, what I am doing wrong? and I had to ask  myself ” Is there a girl that could come up and feed me some chocolate? “. Much to my dislike there was no women, girl, or hell, anybody to feed me any type of chocolate. It turned out that Joe ran into some of his friends that were on there way to The Red River Gorge for the long weekend. So we sat had some espresso, chocolate, and conversation. This quickly reminded me that we were suppose to be on the road to Chattanooga, not sitting and gaining weight the night before I attempt to throw myself at overhanging sandstone walls.  We quickly saddled up and parted ways with one of NC’s most desirable cities. Joe and I spent the rest of the drive that night talking about climbing, women, life, and all the other stuff that guys talk about on long car rides together. It was 2 A.M. Friday morning when we arrived at my buddy Eddie’s house in chattie, needless to say it was right to bed and lights out.

Joe and I  awoke around 7 in the A.M. , scored some coffee and made our way out to the paradise area ( left side of the waterfall ). This is a less traveled area to say the least, it was my first time on this side of the cliff and I was blown away. There are so many quality routes on this side and so much room for growth it almost made me pack what few possessions I have up in a bag and  move to Chattanooga. I had my eye on 3 5.12s in the area, however, 2 of them were soaked… We warmed up on some dry moderates in the area and I found myself under ” Pocket Pussy ” 5.12a. I have climbed my share and then some when it comes to committing routes so I was really not that intimidated looking at this rig from the deck. I could see that the first piece of pro would be 15 maybe 20 feet off the ground, and  I was fine with that so I racked up tied into my new rope and off I went.. I fell from the first hold. It crumbled right in my hand, it was about that time I noticed that the start of the climb was covered in a fine dust and most of the holds could be broken away… So I spotted some pockets that looked ” solid-ish ” and tried again. This time making my way higher and higher through 5.10+ unknown, rock crumbling, feet breaking underneath me, commital ass trad climbing… This is one of those times I ask myself ” Rob, what the hell are you doing? “

I was to the point where down climbing would just piss me off and there is no way I would remember what holds will crumble and what ones will not on the way down, so I had to make a decision. I was not facing a death ground fall, it would most likely have been  a hit the ground the best I can and hope no bones break  from about 20 feet kinda fall. I figured what the hell and attacked the next few moves as calm, concise, and deliberate as I know how. This lead me to matching on a dirty slope with a long maybe non static reach to an unknown hold… At this point we are all in, so I said to my spotter/belayer ” Watch me ” ( this part of my life is called going for it ) awe yeah! A four finger, pad deep crimper and bomber horizontal for a #1. I quickly plugged some pro, listened to Joe and Eddie start to breathe again and made my way to an overlap with some old ass knotted fixed sling. This is where I believed the crux to be and I hung and extended a sling, shook out, and got ready to get savage. I moved through the next section with a few long pulls, rounded holds, and a good lock off, this brought me to a great rest and great gear. If anybody out there has ever done this line feel free to comment! I think I went the right way from here. I left a large hueco feature to a slight left traverse under a roof. This brought me to a decent hold with no pro options, my last piece 10 feet under me and 10 feet to my right. Also I was facing the single hardest move on the route before pro would be an option again so needless to say it was all about airtime if you blow this one. Its a long lock off to an under pull in a roof ( stout for the grade feeling ). Maybe the route went to the right i’m not sure but regardless this was some bad ass rock climbing. A thin face section after this move leads you to a jug laced overhang taking you to a set of bolt anchors. If you have never done this thing and ever have a chance don’t miss it if you are at the grade!

Day 2 ( Enter Rob Robinson )

Joe and I met up with Rob Robinson and Micheal O’Donnell along with  some other local Chattanooga climbers. This was the first time I have met Rob in person and from the second I shook his hand could only feel positive energy. We hiked up the T Wall trail together and started to share stories together.  I could not help but think of how many times Rob has hiked up that trail through so many different parts of his life. This is a feeling I get from hiking into Moore’s Wall, NC every time. I cant help but think about the memories I have made on the cliff line, the boulders, the people I have climbed with, the people I will always remember climbing ( R.I.P. Eric Metcalf ), tripping over my feet under a broken ass headlamp on summer nights tired from long days of climbing,  and what was going on in my life through out the years of knowing that trail. So I can only imagine what Rob remembers walking up the gateway to his piece of the pie.

We arrived at the cliff line and decided to warm up. As we flaked out and tied in I think Rob and I instantly found common ground. We both have been know to push a few limits here and there, however, we both understand the risk and how to take them. The risk we don’t take are the ones that can be avoided. So it was awesome when we both went through a tripe check safety inspection of my figure 8, belay device, and every other interface between myself, Rob, and the rope. We both laughed and shared some words about it, and we both agree that when you are pushing in the face of danger the last thing you want to be thinking about is if you tied in right or made sure the rope was coming out the correct side of the Gri Gri. These are the mistakes that will bite you in the ass, and in climbing a second chance is rare so I make sure I stay as safe as I can. Rob belayed me on a great line Called ” Centerfold ” that would have been a great warm up had I not  pumped out from bringing a stupid undersized rack and playing with gear up high trying to make something work. I straight fell off the warm up taking a decent whip. I felt like a total Nut-Sack. After one hanging our warm up ( WTF? ) Rob said ” I would have placed twice as much gear up that thing! “. I thought I might have been a little sparse here and there so now i’m like thinking great ” I look like total gumby right now “. I’m so used to project style trad that sport climbing over gear has become the norm for me.

Rob tied in  and climbed up the corner system to an overhang with such a controlled and precise series of moves that all I could do was be  impressed. After we cleaned our ” Warm up ”  Rob pointed out a 5.12 line up a brilliant tall gently overhanging flame orange face. I was in awe the moment I saw this thing. He told me its one of the finest lines and never gets done. It was called ” Lord Of The Dance ” And Rob told me that the crux is cryptic and he has watched it shut 5.13 climbers down without a problem. I was so star stuck at how good the line looked I said ” lets do it ” and just decided to give it my all. Joe had just lead a great 5.10 right next to it and was game to shoot some photos. So I quickly tied in, did our safety check and started hanging draws. I quickly found myself in the ” Dance section ” of the climb. I tried this thing a few different ways and just kept getting shut down. Rob was telling me where the hold was he used and I still have no idea how the hell he got to it, I just kept getting shut down and further from the holds. I decided to mix some of his beta with some of mine that I knew would prey on some of my strengths. I figured out a sequence skipping a few holds and making a large dead point to a big hold. After sticking it I realized that the set up moves for the dead point were hard! they were thin, insecure, and about 5 to 6 moves deep to set up for a hard move.

I quickly  made my way up the climb to a beautiful sustained 5.11 grade face section with some amazing thin lock off moves. I was able to make quick work of this section and that brought me to some long pulls in the steep to a move I had to hang on for like 15 minutes to figure it out. I was not sure where to go, what holds to use, there were no feet, and everything felt hard. Finally I found a hard lock off move to another dead point that would be a buzz killer of a redpoint crux right at the top. I got my try hard on and stuck the move, clipped the anchors, and said to myself  ”hell yes!”  as I lowered off… I think everybody was siked that I finished this line. I’m not a good onsight climber at all, however, once I do a sequence I have it, so I told Rob i’m going to try and send this thing. I think he was thrilled to hear the motivation to attack this rarely repeated classic. So having done the moves on this line and feeling how serious some of them are I could not believe Rob was going to try it. I mean a few of the holds on here are tendon breakers if you are not working out on a hangboard regularly. I watched Mr. Robinson impress me move after move on this climb. He really shined through in the face section showing what years of experience can do to a person. I was simply motivated and inspired, that’s really all I could feel. Rob is 52 years old and one of the most down to earth, positive, and inspiration people I have ever met. Him and I talked after he lowered about his years of training for climbing and techniques he used to build power. Joe got pictures of the whole event going down while some guy next to us whipped and ripped a piece. Ripper pieces eewwww…

Rob decided to take a break and I had my new friend Micheal O’Donnell give me a catch on my next burn on the ” Lord Of The Dance “. I focused all of my energy to my center and decided if I left the ground it was with that ” just fucking going for it ” mind set that I would incorporate to every challenge this climb had to throw at me. I moved to the first crux and went right through the thin insecure moves leading me to a palm away sloper right hand and thin crip left hand. I put a little slack in my arms, took a deep breath, and blasted off for the deadpoint only to stick it like a champ. I took a few deep breaths, shook my arms, chalked up and moved right to the face section. Crimped and pimped my way up the perfect orange face with confidence and rested on a jug at a clip. I knew it was all going to come down to this dead point move above me and if I was anything less than 100 percent committed that move would spit me right off. I got my breathe to its lowest, deepest, most controlled state, felt the move inside of me before I tried it, and pictured myself sticking it. I moved from my jug through a series of pulls to set up for the move. I focused every bit on my power and commitment into that move as I smeared, and pulled. I let out a slight grunt as I sunk the semi incut crimp with all four fingers and locked onto it. I pulled myself up and over my feet only to climb more calm and concise than ever. This brought me to clipping the anchor and my redpoint send of ” Lord Of The Dance ” 5.12c with Rob Robinson. This will always be a special memory to me, thanks Rob…

Looking skyward after sticking a deadpoint move on my redpoint send of ” Lord Of The Dance “

Rob is a constant source of motivation, knowledge, and inspiration, the gift of  mother earths Tennessee Wall will always be special to him. We can learn so much from such a connection with nature, and ones self. Below is written word from Rob himself that I have found to be inspiration in its purest form. I could not agree with his words more. If you have not seen his guidebook it’s a must have, his account of the first free ascent of Celestial Mechanics is a do die for read.

1. How long have you been climbing?

Since  1975. From that time on I climbed full-time for 12 years without a break. And if I wasn’t climbing…I was in the gym. If I wasn’t in the gym…I was climbing. That routine was dramatically altered when I went to work for Chouinard Equipment in Ventura, California for two years–at which time my climbing was relegated to weekend outing to the Needles, Joshua Tree and occasionally Yosemite Valley. It was very hard to adapt to this reduced regimen of climbing. While on vacation from my job I found myself back in Chattanooga…climbing again at the Tennessee Wall. I decided to quit my job so I could start climbing again full time. I have climbed off and on at the Wall ever since, and still live 20 minutes from the parking lot.
2. What is one of your favorite memory’s you have from climbing?

That’s almost impossible to answer since I have a lifetime’s worth of incredible climbing memories. Among them though I could include the first time I saw the Tennessee Wall from the opposite side of the canyon. It was like waking up from an incredible dream only to discover the dream is real.

3. What is the scariest route you have ever done at The Tennessee Wall?

One I never finished, but that almost finished me. I was on sight free soloing a nondescript face that morphed into insecure 5.10 and which I was unable to comfortably down climb. I decided to try and traverse across the wall to a ledge to escape and lost control of my head space. Just as I was about to reach the ledge I almost shook off the holds. It was the last time I ever free soloed.

4. If you had any advice for the newer generation of trad climber what would it be?

Don’t pay any attention to what anyone else is doing. Find your own vision and follow it. Look at every climb as another opportunity for you to continue to refine and perfect your art. Focus on foot work … strive to make every foot placement deliberate and precise. Learn to climb on all sides of your shoes, front and back.

Don’t waste your time being a numbers chaser. Climb something because you see it as beautiful and not just because it is hard. Turn a blind eye to competition … it’s not what the essence of climbing is all about. Don’t approach the rock as something to conquer but instead something you are trying to harmonize with. Always triple check your and your partner’s safety systems … knots, anchors, harness etc.

Respect the wilderness.
5. Closing Comments?

Climbing has always been, for me, a quest to find a sense of harmony and balance between myself and whatever it is I’m climbing, and by extension, nature. I’m always searching for … a “perfection of energy”. A metaphor might be the sensation of holding a tuning fork in one’s hand and then striking it. An example of this type experience would be my free ascent of Celestial Mechanics which I recount in the Climber’s Guide to the Tennessee Wall.

Live the Dream

*End Interview*

Thank you to Joe Disciullo, Mike O’Donnell, Eddie Brackett, and Rob Robinson for helping make this happen.

Chris Klinke from Trango on the summit ridge of Makalu

The Mountaineer: “It doesn’t have to be fun to be fun.”
Why it’s true for climbers: Alpine climbers are built tough, as they willingly subject themselves to far more hardships than the average climber. If you’ve ever listened to interviews with the elite group of men and women who have climbed the highest peaks in the world, you can hear it in their voice, and see it in their eyes – there are many times where “fun” is the last word that describes their journey. But back on the ground, it’s easy to see that their experience as a whole is far greater than the sum of its parts. The nasty effects of oxygen deprivation and frostbite are overlooked in those brief moments on the summit before undertaking the most dangerous task of an expedition (getting down). Mountaineering is very much an “ends justifies the means” sort of endeavor, and is not for the faint of heart.
Why it’s true in life: Whether you find alpine climbing inspiring or masochistic (or a little bit of both…), we can probably all relate to mountaineers in this aspect. My guess is that when you look back at your most memorable life experiences, you’ll find that at least a handful of those memories make for great stories to retell, but were anything but fun to endure.

The runout head games in The Needles of South Dakota is the definition of this mantra!

The Trad Climber: “It doesn’t have to be hard to be hard.”
Why it’s true for climbers: Try putting a 5.12 sport climber on a 5.9 hand crack for 600 feet and see how physically and mentally exhausted they are at the end of the day. When it comes to traditional climbing, a much broader skill set is required. It’s a lot more committing, as route-finding, choosing the right gear, and placing that gear correctly are just as important (if not more so) than doing the actual “moves” of the climb.
Why it’s true in life: Sometimes the most simple concepts are the hardest ones to apply. Eat healthy. Exercise regularly. Be kind. Forgive. Be thankful. It’s not uncommon for people (myself included) to struggle at times with these seemingly easy life skills- on paper they may not be hard, but the holistic approach needed to master them can often prove to be quite difficult.

Crag-Daddoo vying for his hardest send yet at the New River Gorge.

The Sport Climber: “Your most competitive rival is yourself.”
Why it’s true for climbers: Nothing is more satisfying than finally sending a long-term project, and nothing is more humbling than watching another climber take a casual warm-up lap up the same route. The immature climber will walk away with a bruised ego, whereas the experienced climber will take the opportunity to watch and learn from those that are more skilled. For me, one of the most refreshing aspects about climbing is the ability to compete ALONGSIDE others without competing AGAINST them (just as with a marathon…but a lot more fun!) Not that there’s anything wrong with a good-natured rivalry, of course, but the climbers that seem to have the most fun are the ones that are intrinsically motivated to achieve personal goals (climbing 5.___, or climbing “X” route) rather than extrinsically motivated to “beat” so and so, or to climb 5.__ before all of his/her friends.
Why it’s true in life: As in sport climbing, you will always encounter those that are both better and worse than you at certain skills. We are each blessed with certain strengths and weaknesses, and it’s our job to play the hand we are dealt. Comparing yourself to others, whether in climbing or “real life,” is a path that will only lead to disappointment. Rather than focusing on what others are doing, focus on what YOU can do, and you might surprise yourself.

Has anyone on the planet NOT seen this picture yet?

The Free Soloist: “Less is More.”
Why it’s true for climbers: Free-soloing is not something I’ve ever taken part of. The risk is obvious – if you fall you die, which for many (me included), is a deal-breaker. But for those that dare to accept that risk, they usually describe a zen-like feeling and awareness that they have only experienced upon leaving the rope, harness, and gear behind. Free-soloists travel light, without being weighed down by gear. It’s just them and the rock, and all they have to focus on is the movement itself – a feeling of freedom indeed.
Why it’s true in life: You don’t have to be a free-soloist to appreciate the life lessons they illustrate. Many times we make life far too complex, and end up being weighed down by circumstances of our own doing. The next time you’re making plans for a family vacation, party, or even just a weekend at home, keep it simple. Because sometimes less is more.

Rob Pryor dyno-ing the path of MOST resistance at Moore’s Wall.

The Boulderer: “The hardest path is the most rewarding.”
Why it’s true for climbers: If I only had a dollar for every time I’ve heard a climber try to explain the concept of bouldering to a non-climber and gotten this response: “You know you can just walk up the back to get to the top, right?!?” What the non-climber doesn’t understand is that the essence of bouldering revolves around doing the hardest moves physically possible. The hardest way up is the whole point! Unlike with roped climbing, sequences consist of just a few moves; once endurance is factored out, it’s amazing what feats of strength the human body is capable of!
Why it’s true in life: Remember the first time your parents made you save up for something and buy it yourself? Since you had to work for it, it probably meant more to you, and receiving it was more rewarding than had it just been given to you. This the exact same concept. The same folks who have fought their way through struggles and trials are the same folks who are stronger in the end, and can look back and see how far they’ve come.

This is certainly not a complete list, but do any of these mantras ring true for you? If you are an active participant in any of these disciplines, what else would you add (or would you disagree with any of the ones listed?)

And so is born the first in series of posts, Lessons Learned.

Keep It Simple (at first)

Lesson from Week #1 – K.I.S.S. = Keep It Simple Setters
What I learned first is that not every route/boulder needs to be comp style or gimmicky. My personality tends toward the analytical side (as if you haven’t picked up on that already). When I look at my favorite routes, both indoor and out, the common theme is that they are thought-provoking and sequence specific. But getting good at setting straight forward routes that still flow is a necessary foundation. This has inspired me to get back out in the garage and set some straight forward problems. One thing I will be doing is setting problems exclusively using each grip style and hand position.

The King With An Axe

Lesson from Week #2 – Collaboration is King
Remember the anectdote about the horses pulling? The horses individually can each pull 2000 lbs. but working together they can pull twice the sum, so 8000 lbs. A wise mentor of mine often says, “You are limited to the knowledge in your own mind.” I learned so much from watching other people climb my routes in their own style. This goes for just plain climbing too. Having a true partnership mentality with a climbing partner is OH SO valuable, and yet often tough to come by. I am more of a controlled technical climber by nature. But I will be seeking to partner with climbers that climb more dynamically to expand my schema. I will pay better attention when belaying/spotting to variances in body position and movement.

FacePalm

Lesson from Week #3 – Intentional Focus = Intentional Growth
This should have been a “Well, DUH!” for me. But as obvious as it is, don’t we all have those [face-palm] moments from time to time? When bodybuilders focus on a muscle group, it grows. Why wouldn’t the same apply to climbing. I’m not even talking about getting stronger here. I’m talking about how much we focus on technique and movement. Just being intentional with creating movements that flow, I have already noticed a difference in my mental ability to locate slight changes I can make in my own technique to be more efficient.

Those are but three of the lessons I’ve learned. What have your experiences taught you?

~ Climb 4 Real ~

Steve and the blanket of shade that followed us around all day.

After turning in a giant lump of manuscript to Earthbound Publishing at the end of the summer last year, my work on the guidebook has been pretty sporadic the past few months. Mostly I’ve just tweaking a few revisions here and there and wrapping up some interviews. However there has still been one large item on my punch list that had remained unchecked for a long time, mostly due to logistics…The North Face. Not the jacket company (although one of those would have come in handy!), but the North Face of Stone Mountain. For most climbers, it’s always been something to gawk at on the way the ever-popular South Face. The rock is steeper, colder, and more polished than the South Face, and protection is just as sparse! Though not far from the road, getting to the base of many of the routes is quite a bushwhack. There are no trails and very little route documentation because no one climbs there…but no one climbs there because there are no trails and very little route documentation. But many of the lines there are just as classic as their more popular neighbors on the sunny South side, and are definitely worth a look for Stone Mountain climbers interested in new, adventurous terrain.

The terrace that houses Merk-n-man (5.9), Surfer Joe and Moe the Sleaze (5.11b), and Side Show (5.10d)

My first forays onto the North Face began last July, when hubby-Steve and I were able to systematically check off all the routes on the left side of the wall. We were making good progress, until a super soaker thunderstorm abruptly put an end to our day. Fortunately we saw it coming and were able to safely retreat to the woods before the water works really got going. Unfortunately, however, we were only halfway done. Fast forward to this past Saturday, when Steve and I headed back up their for round 2 of North Face adventuring.

Though early morning temps were barely scraping 30, the sun plus the hike made us toasty warm as we made our way up to the summit. Our plan was to lower in from the Stainless Steel rappel, and then methodically work our way over until reaching the newer routes put up by Mike Fischesser in 2005. The sun was in full force on top of the dome, and I began to question my decision to bring my bulky down jacket…then we rapped over the bulge and into the dark, shady recesses of the North Face.

The ice monster cave…

While I envisioned all the climbers that were probably draped across the South Face in short sleeves, we were draped in our puffy coats, wearing gloves and knee-high socks underneath our climbing shoes – it was frigid! But despite the cold, we had a very profitable day scoping out routes, taking pictures, and getting a feel for the lay of the land on the right side of the wall. Oh yeah, and the company wasn’t too bad either, as it’s not that often that Steve and I get a chance to adventure together sans Cragbaby!

Our verdict? If you’re slab-happy and you know it, come to the North Face! (But not now…enjoy the South Face while you can, then migrate north when it gets too hot!) And speaking of the South Face, that brings me to the second part of this post – the sneak peek! While MY work on the project is wrapping up, the publisher and topography guy have just been getting started! Over the past few weeks they’ve been swimming in a sea of text, images, and layouts, trying to come up with a good template to work with. We’ve finally settled on something that will work for all of the areas to be included, and I for one am delighted with how it looks so far. Here’s a couple of pictures of how it’s coming together for the Stone Mountain section. It is indeed just a draft, but it can at least provide an accurate picture of how the guide will look and feel.

For those of you that are local, I’ll have even more samples available to read tonight at the Charlotte showing of the Reel Rock Tour. Look for me in the Trango booth and stop by to say hello! Hopefully you guys are as excited as I am to get this book on the shelves. Right now we are still operating on having it ready for the fall season, so fingers crossed!

Except for this day. This day is Friday. And not just any Friday, this Friday I get to go home. Ugh, I get to go home? now? Who’s idea was this? Right. Mine. fool. I’ve been up since 5am, we just put in a 12.5 hour day, and the schedule says I’m off tomorrow which means I unexpectedly have an extra day home if I jet out now… When opportunity knocks you don’t turn up your nose, so I load up the truck and depart Atlanta at 7pm.

After driving through the night, I pass through Beaumont completely out of my mind with exhaustion, but right when I thought about quitting, and pulling over for a nap, the light of day rose again, and the sun came to greet me. I guess she’s not so lazy after all, and I’m the one who’s foolish. Hello Houston, I’m glad to be home. It’s now 8am.

And that’s when it hits me. This isn’t normal at all, my life is completely absurd, and I love it!

I was already thinking these thoughts when an article came out and summed it up perfectly “My best vacation is your worst nightmare.” For me that story is played out on a smaller scale every weekend. When we’re leaving the site everybody naturally starts thinking about the weekend, they’re done climbing, and I’ve only just begun! The rocks are calling, and I can’t deny them.

Just a Tower-Hand Kickin’ it old-school in Cons

“so how was your weekend?”
“well, after work on Friday I went to Stone Summit (The US’s largest climbing gym) and did about 1,000ft of laps 5.10 or harder, then I got called in to work Saturday, but some guys from work want to go climb outside Sunday so I’m optimistic. I show up Saturday and wind up climbing 750ft of towers. Sunday I drag another tower-hand out climbing, since he has no gear I tie him a swiss-seat to follow me, and we paddle up some easy multi-pitch in tennis-shoes.”

And suddenly it hits me… Not a single word in this description meant anything whatsoever to my bank-teller…

6:30 AM

Time to load up in the truck and pick up the rest of the crew. Don’t be late. You will be left behind. If you don’t feel like climbing today we don’t need you. It’s bitterly cold, damp, and dark, but as many have said before me: “this IS what we came here for… right?”

7:30AM

Everybody is in the truck, it’s time to roll, but there’s one important thing left to do before we hit the highway:

“Don’t know where I’m going, I just keep on rowing, I just keep on rowing, gotta row…”

We like to start off the morning right by blasting soundgarden, and “Rowing” is our anthem. Sometimes the going gets tough, and we’re expected to keep on rowing straight through it all. Once we start, there’s always a certain level of commitment and sometimes you hit the ground a little battered, bruised and muscle sore…. actually, I think I’ve been sore for the past two months straight. or six weeks… or was it 3? wait… it’s February? when did that happen?

The days on the road all blur together, and the body begs for rest every morning, but as soon as we crank our tunes none of that matters. we’re relaxed, content, excited, and ready to bust out the ropes and start hauling.

9AM rolls around the clock and we’re on location staring up at the climb. I take off first because I’m our quickest climber, which I blame on home-field advantage and years of training. which also means I’m in charge of hauling the load rope up 3ooft and rigging the anchors up top, but I genuinely like the exercise. It’s wet, I’m tired, there’s even a little frost on the climb. This gear is all foriegn to me and I don’t trust it, but I trust in myself, my forearms rise to the challenge but in the end my biceps are burning from the exertion less than half-way up. This is harder than I thought it would be.

I should probably clarify one major point here… I am a professional Tower Climber, working on cell tower upgrades. It’s not quite the dream I’d crafted for myself after watching all those videos of Chris Sharma and Tommy Caldwell for the past several years, but in some ways it’s even better. I’m living out of my truck, but I don’t have to sleep in it since the company gets me a hotel. I’m not scraping pennies together to cobble enough money for oatmeal, the company gives me per-diem to offset the cost of living on the road. I don’t get to pick my destinations, but all of my travel expenses are covered. At first I just KNEW it would be the end of my ability to train and climb hard, but instead it’s turning out to be the start of my outdoor climbing career, and I couldn’t be happier about that!

This job, just like any other, has it’s perks and detriments. But at the end of the day, even when everything sucks… we just keep on rowing. I don’t know where we’re going or when we’ll get there. Some days I wake up and have absolutely no desire to climb. I really thought that having to do it for a living would kill the joy, but as soon as I’m 10ft off the ground. THIS. IS. AWESOME! And there’s nowhere else I’d rather be.

Keep checking back, I’ll be bringing more updates with the little oddities and small things that make this life so interesting as my work, climbing, and genuinely terrible motel internet connection allow. Feel free to inquire about any curiosities you have and I’ll try to get around to them in later posts.

Slow and static does NOT always win the race…

TRY SMARTER: After replaying my efforts from the aforementioned route in my head, it was clear why it looked like I wasn’t trying, even though I had felt as though I’d been giving 100% – I was doing it all wrong! I was so busy using my best “girl techniques” – getting my feet up as high as possible and locking off as low as I could, that I’d forgotten about the most basic of strategies for long moves – moving dynamically! I realized that as I’ve gotten stronger, I’ve been able to do moves in a more static and controlled way, and have gotten out of the habit of climbing aggressively. So I did an experiment the next week in the gym where I picked out a few easier problems to run laps on, using progressively less and less holds – forcing my movements to get more and more dynamic. After about 30 minutes my body was remembering how to move with momentum again, so I decided to tackle some harder problems that I’d been struggling on the week before. I was shocked to send both rather easily on my first attempt! Adding an extra “pop” at full extension easily gave me the extra couple of inches I’d been missing, and committing wholeheartedly to deadpoint moves (rather than always leaving room to bail) made all the difference. In other words, TRYING SMARTER enabled me to TRY HARDER.

You’re gonna have to try harder than that…;)

TRY ANYWAY: Another TRY HARD strategy came to light on a recent bouldering trip. I saw several folks working a very anti-Cragmama problem. It looked so hard that at first I didn’t even want to try it. As I got situated on the start holds, I couldn’t help but notice that the next hold was not only intimidatingly far away, but was behind me rather than above me. I silently gave myself a less than 10% chance of making the move, but decided I had nothing to lose by giving it a whirl. And lo and behold I made it all the way to the last move on my very first attempt! I went on to send the problem about 15 minutes later. Moral of the story – even if you’re sure you can’t do it, TRY ANYWAY!

TRY AGAIN: A lot of times the “hard” part of a route is figuring out the right combination of moves for your body size and your skill set – and once you figure it out and practice it a few times, the actual redpoint run feels significantly easier. You still have to execute perfectly, of course, but in your heart you can have confidence in knowing that if you do the sequence correct you will succeed 100% of the time. But sometimes the best sequences are so difficult that even the best beta has a pretty low success rate, either because the route is at the peak of your limit, or because it involves a lower percentage technique, such as a dyno. There’s a route like that for me at our local crag, and although I dont’ technically have a success story with it yet, I’ve already learned a good deal from it. The secret to success on this route is going to come from TRYING AGAIN…and again and again and again, knowing one of these days I’ll stick the move the first time. I’ve done the hard part (finding a sequence that works), but the TRY HARD strategy in this instance is to not give up – and to of course make sure I remember the upper section well enough so that I won’t blow the redpoint when I finally do nail the crux!

While it may sound a bit oversimplified and somewhat cliche, I’m thrilled with the improvements I’ve already seen from adopting a TRY HARD mentality. It seems to have kickstarted a positive cycle – I’m trying harder, therefore I’m climbing better, which makes me climb more confidently, which allows me to climb harder. So while it may be a bit cheesy, it seems to be working (at least for the time being), so I may as well stick with it! Has anyone else been able to break through a mental or physical plateau simply by a shift in perspective? If so, please feel free to share below – I’d love to get a discussion going!

I am a big advocate of setting goals. I also am notorious for setting extremely lofty goals. This year, I’m setting goals that are progressive yet attainable. [Vegas odds of 70% +]

I’ve heard of (from several sources) climbers setting yearly goals revolving around their birthday that year. An example would be: I’ll be 31 years old this year, so I’ll climb 31 routes above 5.11. Or the Birthday Challenge: Climb 31 pitches in the 24 hours of their birthday. (IMPRESSIVE) I’ve also come across yearly goals corresponding with the Calendar Year. Example: Climb 20 5.11′s in 2011. Or send 12 5.12′s in 2012.

CragMama.com

CragMama has a few years of track record documented on her blog, both with the setting of goals and the evaluation of those goals at the end of the year. I’d encourage you to check it out.

In her blog she uses several corresponding numbered goals. #2 – Try at least one 5.13 in 2013. #4 – Send 5 V5 boulders. In the past she’s done: send 12 5.12′s in 2012.

So here is my rendition of 2013 climbing goals.

20 – Twenty days of outdoor climbing. This may not sound like such a large goal. But some things to consider: (1) This would be about double what I did in 2012. Poor planning and just plain busyness are my faults. This is a modest goal that I genuinely feel I can accomplish IF I make it a point of focus (which I am doing now) & (2) I live in Minnesota (nuff said). I will accomplish this by getting out at least 2 days per month at the local crags. Also I have plans in the works for 2-3 destination excursions.

13 – Thirteen routes sent at 5.12a or higher. I have done 4 – 12a’s in the last two seasons, all in only 2 attempts. This demonstrates 3 things. (1) I don’t get outside nearly enough, (2) I (we) goof off a tad too much when I do get the rare outdoor day, & (3) I can climb harder. This too will take some good planning and discipline to accomplish, but I feel it is highly attainable.

AND – I too would like to give a true attempt at my first 5.13 in 2013. I am really hoping to take a return trip to Jackson Falls this November. Jackson Falls is a cool sandstone crag in So.Ill. The location is very cool. I’d love to jump on Red Corvette (13a). Or even stop by Pettenwell Bluff on the way home and give a go on Whiskey A Go-Go (13a). The fact that this goal is not revolving around success on the route makes this purely a logistical effort. Plus a self-image concern. If I am accomplishing the first 2 goals, I feel I will be READY for a 13a. But if I’ve only been outside 8 times this year and sent nothing above 12b … maybe I would feel like I don’t deserve it. Lets find out!!!

Click here to view the embedded video.

Click here to view the embedded video.

So I’m laying it all out there again. Let’s hear from you…
What climbing goals have you set for 2013?

~ Climb 4 Real ~