• Climbing the Grand Teton (and Updates)

      2012 has been a hectic year. Here’s the quick rundown: Me and Melissa graduated from ASU in May Summer internships in WV Went on a road trip to celebrate being done with school Got engaged on top of Longs Peak CO and climbed the Grand Teton (among other stuff out west) Moved back to WV (NRG in our backyard!) Started new jobs as speech therapists. So that’s the quick rundown of the last 6 months. The highlight though was definitely climbing the Grand via the Owen Spalding route (and of course, getting engaged), which has been on my to-do list ever since I first went to the Tetons in 2000. It took me 12 years and one failed attempt Read More

  • Longs Peak Cirque Ice Climbing – 11.5.12

    Alpine climbing at its finest.  High elevation, wind, little sun, cold temperatures, it all combines to make an epic day on the mountain.  My first day out this season was up to the high alpine of Rocky Mountain National Park in the Longs Peak Cirque.  We started at the Longs Peak Trailhead parking lot at 6:20 am and didn’t return until about 4:30 that afternoon.  The hike was a pretty grueling 4.5 miles up above treeline and into the cirque that is formed by Mount Meeker, Mount Lady Washington and Longs Peak.  I had never been up to Longs Peak and so I did not know what the area was like.  Much of the time I felt like I was heading Read More

  • Ice Climbing: A Scary Sport or Just Misunderstood

    I fell in love with ice climbing at the Ouray Ice Festival in January of 2007.  I had just moved out to Colorado the summer before and a friend of mine still living in Florida was interested in coming out to Colorado for the festival.  He convinced myself and a housemate of mine to go on a roadtrip to Ouray to climb and participate in the Ice Festival in Ouray.  Having no idea what I should really expect I reserved myself to hoping that it wouldn’t be too cold and that I wouldn’t get too scared.  I was amazed, when I arrived at that box canyon outside Ouray on the way up “Million Dollar Highway”, to see ice climbers young Read More

  • Through The Alpenglow

    It’s 4 am Busterson woke me up to say he wanted to pee – I lay in bed listening to the regular breathing of my pregnant wife, who is(are) soundly sleeping, unlike the night before – I’m sore as hell, but Buster’s persistence gets me grudgingly to my feet  – out front he sniffs around and growls at the aspen leaves shaking in the morning wind – he looks over to let me know he had things in control -  I don’t get it - I’m still half asleep and dreaming for a moment I’m buffeted by the same cold Sierra wind of a day earlier I’m driving west up Tioga Pass with Claude – We start hiking with headlamps Read More

  • CA Climber Magazine – Exploring Way Lake

    Issue No. 1 of California Climber Magazine just hit the shelves A publication Dean Flemming put a big effort into showcasing areas of a more (CA) local feel  I’m psyched to see that it’s a quality production James Lucas and I collaborated for an article on the Way Lake bouldering area up in the Mammoth Lakes Basin - he put together interviews with developers of the area and I added photos I’ve taken since first climbing there in 2008 - it came together well, as did the rest of the magazine features (Chipmunk Flat – Sonoma Coast Bouldering – Woodfords Canyon) If you’re in California you might pick it up free at a local climbing gym (while they last) or you Read More

  • going…going…

    The Alpine Season   is going… going…  fuck that I’m going skiing up here soon.   Read More

  • Wyoming

    I enjoy getting to know a bit about the places I visit on climbing trips. On the grand scale, reflecting on geological/natural history makes my interactions with the rock seem simultaneously inconsequential and precious. On the human scale, the more I know about an area the richer my experiences are. The Tetons and Wild Iris are two areas with many layers of history. Todd Skinner and Paul Piana helped bring euro style sport climbing in the US with the development of Wild Iris.  The climbing here is raw pocket pulling fun, and for the original developers it was a training ground for their big-wall ambitions. It was fun to feel the powerful nature of the routes, to get used to Read More

  • Alpine climbing in Pakistan.

    I recently got back from a great climbing trip in the amazing Karakorum Mountain Range of Pakistan. Partnered with Matt McCormick and Will Meinen we spent four and a half weeks in the mountains and two weeks traveling around. Visiting that country was an incredible adventure and hardly describable in a short blog post. A brief account of our adventures has been recorded on my blog, but expect a full write up at Mountain Hardwear.com via a three part mini-series with videos and photographs scheduled for release in September. Having barely unpacked and the fact that I am in WV a spitting distance from the awesome Nuttall sandstone of the New, my time has been limited for sifting through the Read More

  • It’s surreal, like the Matrix

    This really isn’t my story to tell. Sure, I was close enough to reach out and let my arm get taken off by the chunk of rock hurtling from above, but it was Luke who pulled it off. Alpine climbing. There’s been a lot of motivation to be out there – up there – lately. Covering miles and linking up peaks in a day. Lugging my camera along with. Gaining more experience. Matthes Crest The Incredible Hulk pushes you that much farther. From the early swamp crossing and hiking miles through a steep, talus filled drainage – into the night where it towers above as you drift off to sleep. The Intimidation Factor is ever present. The Incredible Hulk I Read More