• Sometimes Climbers Aren’t Cool

    I often wear cargo shorts (or cargo pants when it’s cold) to go climbing. This is fairly new for me. Besides the usefulness of always having chapstick at my fingertips, I find that wearing cargo pants makes me a better steward of the environment. Allow me to explain… Bouldering in Rocky Mountain National Park is, as I’ve mentioned before, beautiful and relatively remote. I still remember when the Druids in Bishop were too damn far away to bother with. Now, that 45-minute hike at 6,000 feet sounds like a rest day. Upper Chaos involves about 60 minutes of hiking (after 90 minutes of driving, if you live in the Front Range), with an elevation gain of about 800 feet, just Read More

  • The American Alpine Club

    Below is a very cool letter from the Executive Director of the American Alpine Club, Phil Powers.  It is neat to see what the AAC is doing in the USA to preserve classic climbing areas and secure new areas.  The AAC just purchased the Hueco Rock Ranch to make sure that it is around for seasons to come and is run more smoothly for climbers who visit Hueco Tanks.  The benefits of a membership are great as well.  They offer rescue coverage, free book rentals from the library in Golden, CO and many other benefits. Read below and let me know what you think in the comments.  If you are a member or at least agree with the principles of the AAC Read More

  • The Upstate Bouldering Guidebook: A New Guidebook to Bouldering in the Jocassee Gorges of SC and Western NC

    Upstate Bouldering Guidebook Ordering Information: To order a copy of the Upstate Bouldering Guidebook, a guide to… *Around 350 bouldering routes in Upstate of South Carolina and western North Carolina Areas covered in The Upstate Bouldering Guide… Jocassee Gorges Area of SC: -Little Eastatoee -Beasley Gap -Sasquatch -Big Eastatoee Western NC: -Whitewater Falls -Granite City -Pisgah National Forest/Looking Glass *11 Jocassee Gorges mountain bike rides *2 Jocassee Gorges road bike rides *Suggestions for… +Future boulder route development +A dozen whitewater runs nearby, from class II-V+ +8 different flatwater paddling destinations +Hundreds of miles of hiking and backpacking in nearby areas +A variety of swimming holes on local rivers and lakes +Gear Shops nearest each bouldering area +Camping within a few Read More

  • Save NC State Parks!

    I just got this email from the Carolina Climbers Coalition.  Even if you do not live in North Carolina or have never even been to North Carolina, you might find yourself passing through one day to climb on some of the best rock in the United States!  Please read the following to help save North Carolina State Parks! Carolina Climbers Coalition Update You may have heard about the proposed plan to close NC State Parks during the “off season” in order to save money. As I’m sure you’re aware, the “off season” is the prime time that climbers access the parks. The specific climbing areas affected by the closure would include: Rumbling Bald, Stone Mountain, Pilot Mountain, Crowder’s Mountain, Dixon Read More

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    New blog and the debate over “pro” climbing

    After seeing a family of fifteen or so people climbing at Little Rock City (Stone Fort) last week in their socks on the boulders without a crash pad, I finally decided I needed to step up and take a stand. For those of you not familiar with the boulder field, it’s a gem of the Southeast located just outside Chattanooga, TN. I’ve been climbing there for a few years now (barely long enough to say I’m local), and I’ve witnessed a lot of change even in the short amount of time I’ve been here. A lot of people like to blame the now overwhelming concentration of climbers on the Triple Crown bouldering series. While I think the Triple Crown has Read More

  • Triple Crown Stone Fort: Open Fairway Boulders and post-comp event on the 18th Hole

    The Triple Crown’s success story for bouldering at Stone Fort continues to grow. It begins with helping create public access to Stone Fort, some of the best boulders anywhere. This year, the story progresses further with the boulders along the fairway being officially opened for climbing (comp day only). While competitors logged miles on the field’s standards, the highlight was all the action on the 18th hole–not golf this time, but climbing. Tiger Woods didn’t show, but Jimmy Webb did. He managed the first ascent of a fantastic looking bulge-to-squeeze problem (video coming here soon), to the right of the equally aesthetic Y Crack. Just up the way were more gems densely packed together, including some highly technical slabs, classic runnel-squeeze Read More

  • Dixon School Road Boulders Guidebook Review and Author Interview

    I’ve been posting often recently about the new Dixon School Road Boulders Guidebook…and for good reason! This was a great project to help out ALL Western North Carolina boulderers…it provides solid info and history about Dixon and takes some of the impact off of Rumbling Bald by providing an alternative for the pebble wrestlers. I wanted to do a quick review of the guidebook, but I wanted to mainly spotlight the author, and his efforts to help not only local climbers, but the CCC also. Thanks Matt for all of your hard work! The Review After the dedication to Shane Cobourn, the table of contents, and a nice intro to the Carolina Climbers Coalition (CCC), a colorful first hand history Read More

  • Win A Free Guided Boulder Tour!

    Upstate Bouldering is proud to announce that it will be a sponsor of 2 upcoming Adopt-A-Crag days, Looking Glass NC on September 24th and Table Rock SC on December 10th! Both of these trail days benefit places very close to my home and they also help out the Carolina Climbers Coalition in their goal of being great stewards of our climbing areas. I wanted to sponsor these trail days and give back to the local boulderers all at the same time, so I will be giving away 5 guided bouldering tours for each of these trail days! The Western North Carolina Climbers Weekend will be the weekend of September 24th and 25th in Brevard/Pisgah Forest, NC. As part of this Read More

  • Buttermilk Toilet Proposal Comments Needed

    Wills Young, a long time Bishop climber and author of the Bishop Bouldering guide book, recently posted an article on his blog about the promised building of a pit toilet at the Buttermilks climbing area. Young discusses the two options that are presented and provided contact information for comments on the proposed toilet sites. Below is the information from Young’s blog. Please send in your comments about the Forest Service decision. Andrew Schurr of the group Friends of the Inyo wrote to me recently about a proposal from the Forest Service to construct one or two permanent pit toilets with wheelchair accessible paths adjacent to the Buttermilk boulders. The proposal mentions two locations: 1) the parking/turn-around at the Birthday Boulders, Read More