• Climbing Coaching Catching Up

    I sparked a conversation with some local climbers about the strong youth climbers coming out of the Midwest. As many online forum conversations often go, this one took a slight turn in a different direction, to coaching (or sometimes lack thereof). In that exchange I received this very solid quote from one of the strongest climbers out of Minnesota, Nic Oklobzija. The First Ascentionist of The Raven (V12) and co-author of the upcoming Midwest Bouldering Guide. “The only things holding [climbers] back in the Midwest are that our facilities are ill equipped to train at the same level as our counterparts out west and our coaching. I think the coaching is more a national level problem not just the Midwest. Read More

  • Father’s Day “Supplies”

    No, its not a typo, its just my most quoted line from the 1989 Weird Al comedy UHF. But in all seriousness, I did have a great Father’s Day Surprise this year. My wonderful wife made some secret plans for a climbing outing, and even my 5 year old and 3 year old didn’t spill the beans. The real story started about a week prior. And actually further set-up back in January. As you may have read in one of my earlier posts, I had set some climbing related goals for 2013. One such goal was to get outside climbing more days in 2013 than previous years. Twenty days to be exact. Well, guess what didn’t cooperate with my plans… Read More

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    The Mangrove Tree

    A while back, likely last March based on the date stamp, I read a blog post from Sean McColl about a French Training Camp he participated in. Right away I was intrigued by one of the activities he described as “Mangrove Power” or as my poor French translating from the diagram to the right, “The Mangrove Tree”. At the time I was guest routesetting at a local Lifetime Fitness climbing wall. This wall is actually pretty decent compared to other fitness center walls I’ve seen. They had 9 top-rope set-ups and some pretty good variety of angles. I thought of using this Mangrove Tree concept at that wall for 2 reasons. First, to increase the volume and variety of routes Read More

  • Lessons Learned: Routesetters Clinic

    A month ago, I was invited to participate in a 3-week routesetting clinic for prospective new routesetters at our local Climbing Gym Franchise. It was a tremendous experience. I learned a ton about movement, mindset, and my own climbing. There are lessons to be learned in every experience and in the words of Benjamin Franklin, “When you’re finished changing, you’re finished.” And so is born the first in series of posts, Lessons Learned. Lesson from Week #1 – K.I.S.S. = Keep It Simple Setters What I learned first is that not every route/boulder needs to be comp style or gimmicky. My personality tends toward the analytical side (as if you haven’t picked up on that already). When I look at Read More

  • 2013 … Goals

    I am a big advocate of setting goals. I also am notorious for setting extremely lofty goals. This year, I’m setting goals that are progressive yet attainable. [Vegas odds of 70% +] I’ve heard of (from several sources) climbers setting yearly goals revolving around their birthday that year. An example would be: I’ll be 31 years old this year, so I’ll climb 31 routes above 5.11. Or the Birthday Challenge: Climb 31 pitches in the 24 hours of their birthday. (IMPRESSIVE) I’ve also come across yearly goals corresponding with the Calendar Year. Example: Climb 20 5.11′s in 2011. Or send 12 5.12′s in 2012. CragMama has a few years of track record documented on her blog, both with the setting Read More

  • Three Punch Combo

    Now, let’s be honest. I am NOT the only one that has fallen off the wagon with my good intentioned plans, training or otherwise. For this winter, I have planned a quite structured training program. But for the past 2 weeks, I have fallen behind and ad libbed (dictionary: v.intr. – to engage in improvisation) ad nauseam (dictionary: adv. – to a disgusting or ridiculous degree). In this instance, the anecdote is climbing related. But guess what … this is Life! Success Principles are Universal!!! Whether its business, relationships, health, or any number of real world categories, there will always be instances where we fall short of even our own expectations of ourselves. It is our perspective and response to Read More